Wednesday, February 26, 2014

Wrinkles 101 - Targeted Anti-Aging

Those crinkles start innocently enough:  you smile and they appear at the corners of your eyes. Then, seemingly overnight, they stick around long after you stop smiling.  Soon their friends show up – all across your forehead.  You are coming face-to-face with your aging face.  So join the club!  It is possible to fight back.  Read on for a timeline of how your skin ages, plus specific strategies that will shave off the years.




Eyes

What's going on
You see the beginning of crow’s feet.  Sleep deprivation leads to puffy eyes, leaving small lines from the overstretched skin.  Plus, regular facial motions, from squinting in the sun to smiling create lines. 

Strategy
The least invasive fix is an eye cream with caffeine which temporarily tightens skin to make the lines less obvious.  For a more impactful solution, try Botox or Dysport to paralyze muscles under the skin for three to six months.  Your face will look refreshed. 

Forehead

What’s going on
You’ll start to see what is known as dynamic facial wrinkles – lines that are apparent when your face is in motion, not at rest.  That includes the 11 you get between your brows when you are angry or concerned and frontal lines.  

Strategy
Sunscreen is an absolute must daily (even under makeup) as UV rays have been proved to destroy collagen.  A retinol night cream can help rebuild collagen under the skin which will help smooth the lines on the surface.  Botox is a lifesaver here; injections may have a cumulative effect, preventing the wrinkles you have from getting deeper. 

Cheeks

What’s going on
The fat in your cheeks begins to diminish causing them to flatten (funny– the same thing has happened to my butt LOL).  You may also see more nasolabial folds, the vertical furrows that go from the sides of the nose to the corners of the mouth. 

Strategy
Humectants are the name of the game for boosting volume.  Skin care products that contain lactic and hyaluronic acids attract water and help skin retain it for a plumper effect. You'll get more dramatic results from the filler, Voluma, recently approved by the FDA for use in the cheeks.  Injected under the muscles, it adds volume that lasts for about six months.  In addition, Radiesse is another filler used in this area.

Lips

What’s going on
Those vertical lines on lips and around their perimeter become etched from years of kissing, pursing and sipping from a straw.  If you smoke (a no-no) they are likely to be even more prominent.  

Strategy
Keeping lips hydrated with a wax based balm helps them look and feel smoother.  Apply lip-contour creams  with retinol, peptides or hyaluronic acid on and around lips to soften the skin and increase collagen production.  Juvederm is a common filler that is used for these vertical lip lines to plump up those areas.  The effects will last for about six months.

Neck and Decolletage

What’s going on
This area spans the base of the jaw to the top of the chest.  The first issues you’ll notice here are dark spots and crepey skin, especially if you skimped on sunscreen in your younger years.  

Strategy
Nightly application of a retinol cream or one containing licorice can help fade dark spots.  The ultrasound technology Ulthera can be used on the area to stimulate collagen production and smooth out lines. 

Jawline

What’s going on
As the cheeks begin to sag from the effects of gravity (just like my butt again!), skin and fat spill over the jawline causing what we affectionately call “jowls”.  The result is a sunken look and a more square-shaped jawline.  

Strategy
Neck creams that contain peptides, hyaluronic acid and hydrators like shea butter can keep skin along the jawline looking supple.  In addition, focused ultrasound machines, such as Ulthera, can both lift the skin and obliterate some of the fat underneath. 

Some excellent products to try are those made by L’Oreal, RoC®, Olay, Neutrogena, CeraVe and DHC skincare.  The formula (cream, lotion or serum) is not as important as the content. Look for products that contain the ingredients highlighted in red above.  I really like DHC (www.DHCcare.com) because they give you 4 free samples with every order plus a loyalty discount that includes free shipping.  So it really gives you a chance to try certain products before you order them in their full sizes.  Taking care of your skin is important so make it a top priority on your list!

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